We arrived in San Sebastián San Sebastián, Spain on July 15th, dropping our bags at a small guesthouse near the city center. The heat was manageable, but the humidity from the Bay of Biscay meant walking felt a bit slower than usual. We kept our initial budget in mind, opting for a modest room that prioritized location over amenities so we could spend more on food.
Our first evening was spent in the Parte Vieja Parte Vieja, San Sebastián. Navigating the narrow streets is easy once you realize the sheer density of bars means you never have to walk more than thirty seconds to find a new spot. We quickly learned that standing at the bar is standard, and the best food is usually whatever is coming fresh out of the kitchen rather than sitting on the counter.
“The strategy is to order one drink and two pintxos per bar, then keep moving.”
By the third day, we spent the afternoon at La Concha Beach La Concha Beach, San Sebastián. It gets crowded by midday, so finding a spot near the water requires getting there before 11:00 AM. We brought our own towels and snacks from a local supermarket, which helped us stay well under our €75 daily limit per person while still enjoying the sun.
One surprise was how much the city changes after dark. The social scene moves entirely into the streets, with people spilling out of bars like Gandarias Gandarias, San Sebastián until well past midnight. It is loud and busy, but the energy is consistent rather than chaotic, making it easy to just blend in with the local crowd.
On our final day, we hiked up Monte Urgull Monte Urgull, San Sebastián for a view of the coastline. The path is paved and takes about twenty minutes, making it an easy way to burn off the previous nights' worth of txakoli and fried snacks. We left on the 20th, having spent most of our budget on small plates and local wine, feeling like we managed the city’s reputation for expensive dining by sticking to the counter-service spots.